Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
